Fashion Houses Embracing Luneville Embroidery in Their Collections

Luxury fashion often serves as a testament to the enduring artistry of traditional techniques, and Luneville embroidery is no exception. This intricate French craft, renowned for its use of beads, sequins, and threads, has become a defining feature of haute couture collections by brands like Chanel, Dior, and Elie Saab.

Luneville embroidery is not only about embellishing fabric — it’s about storytelling, texture, and the transformation of garments into works of art. Let’s explore how some of the world’s most iconic designers have incorporated this exceptional technique into their creations.

Chanel: Tradition Meets Modernity

Chanel's Métiers d'art collections are a testament to the brand's dedication to preserving and innovating traditional crafts. In the 2023/24 Métiers d'art collection, Chanel collaborated with Atelier Montex, an embroiderer since 1949, to create sophisticated motifs using needlework, the Luneville crochet hook, and the Cornely, a century-old embroidery machine guided by hand.

For a deeper look at how this hook compares to other tools, read What’s the Difference Between Tambour and Luneville Embroidery?

This collection featured richly embroidered jackets and dresses, where intricate beadwork and sequined patterns added depth and texture to classic silhouettes. The fusion of traditional Luneville techniques with modern design elements exemplifies Chanel's commitment to craftsmanship and innovation.

Dior: Embroidery as Storytelling

Under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior's Spring/Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection drew inspiration from ancient Greek attire, incorporating draped garments and peplos-inspired designs. The use of jersey fabric emphasized modernity and freedom, aligning with Chiuri's feminist perspective and Dior's historical references.

The collection showcased gowns adorned with delicate Luneville embroidery, depicting motifs inspired by nature and mythology.

Nature-inspired motifs also appear in Boho Motifs and Their Meanings

The intricate beadwork and sequined designs transformed the fabric into a storytelling medium, highlighting Dior's ability to blend historical inspiration with contemporary fashion.

Elie Saab: A Symphony of Sparkle

Elie Saab's Spring/Summer 2025 collection drew inspiration from the African savannah, incorporating natural textures and vibrant colors into his designs. The collection featured garments with intricate Luneville embroidery, including fern motifs on floor-grazing tulle gowns and micro leopard prints on military jackets and chiffon gowns.

Saab's use of raffia and a natural palette brought a fresh, modern edge to traditional safari clothing, resulting in a refined and vibrant show. The meticulous beadwork and sequined patterns exemplify the opulence and sophistication that Luneville embroidery brings to haute couture.

Raffia and natural textures were also highlighted in Valentino Fall 2025: Embellishment as Language

Next Reads:

• What is Luneville Embroidery and Why I Love It

• Fashion Houses Embracing Luneville Embroidery in Their Collections

Bringing Couture Techniques Home

The exquisite use of Luneville embroidery by these fashion houses offers a wealth of inspiration for embroidery enthusiasts. By studying these designs, you can learn how to:

• Incorporate Intricate Motifs: Experiment with complex patterns and themes, such as nature-inspired designs or cultural narratives, to add depth to your projects.

• Blend Textures and Materials: Combine different materials like beads, sequins, and natural fibers to create rich, tactile surfaces.

• Fuse Traditional and Modern Elements: Integrate classic embroidery techniques with contemporary design aesthetics to produce unique, personalized creations.

Learning Luneville embroidery opens the door to creating couture-like embellishments from the comfort of your home. If you’re not familiar with the method, my introduction to Luneville embroidery explains the craft behind these couture embellishments. With dedication and practice, you can master this exquisite craft, bringing a touch of haute couture elegance to your personal projects.