What is Luneville Embroidery and Why I Love It

Let’s skip the Wikipedia summary — this is my take on Luneville embroidery, shaped by hands-on experience and years of practice. If you’re curious to dive deeper, there’s plenty of rich history out there to explore. But for now, here’s a quick overview of the essentials.

Luneville embroidery is a type of tambour embroidery, a technique built around one fundamental stitch: the chain stitch. It’s created using a distinctive tool — a small, fine hook needle attached to a handle. The key feature? All stitching is done from the reverse side of the fabric, meaning you won’t see the final result until you turn the frame over.

If you’re looking for reliable tambour (Luneville) hooks, I now stock them in my shop: Explore hooks here.

The technique originated in 18th-century Lunéville, France, and later evolved into a staple of haute couture embellishment.

What Makes Luneville Embroidery So Effective?

Speed and Efficiency

I once heard a story about someone walking into a craft shop asking for a Luneville embroidery tool. When shown the hooked needle, they asked, “But where’s the motor?” They assumed — based on videos they’d seen online — that this technique was mechanical.

While it may look automated in fast-forwarded videos, it’s entirely hand-done. But that doesn’t mean it’s slow. Quite the opposite: Luneville embroidery allows you to cover large areas quickly, especially when working with beads, sequins, or chain stitch fills. Completing an A4 or even A3-sized composition in just a few hours is absolutely realistic.

One Stitch, Many Thread Options

You only use the chain stitch — but that doesn’t mean you’re limited creatively. The technique works with an enormous range of threads, from fine silks and metallics to thick cottons and synthetic fibres. Each thread interacts with the stitch differently, producing distinct surface textures and finishes.

Beyond Thread: Beads, Sequins, and More

Another major advantage is how efficiently you can attach beads, sequins, and other embellishments. Compared to working with a regular needle and thread, beaded and sequinned areas take significantly less time using the Luneville hook. And for someone like me — who enjoys dense embellishment — this makes a real difference.

See more examples of bead and sequin use in Valentino Fall 2025: Embellishment as Language

Not Just for Silk Organza

When I first started, I was told that Luneville embroidery only works on the finest silk organza. It’s a common myth — likely due to the bridal industry’s influence, where sheer fabrics dominate.

In practice, that’s far from the truth. With a little training and technique adjustment, you can work on a wide variety of fabrics, including tulle, mesh, satin, denim, jersey, velvet, and even leather. The material doesn’t have to be delicate to be suitable.

For modern styling inspiration, explore Boho and Embroidery: A Spring-Summer 2025 Celebration of Craftsmanship

Aesthetics You Can Trust — Front and Back

One of my favourite things about this technique is the clean finish on the reverse side. I personally find messy backs frustrating, especially when I want to leave a piece unlined. Thanks to the way the hook operates, Luneville embroidery produces an exceptionally neat reverse — something I really value when designing garments and accessories where both sides may be visible.

This was just a short introduction, not a deep dive. But if you're still with me — thank you for reading. And if you're curious about the tools or want to explore the technique further, I’m always happy to answer questions.

Next Reads:

• What’s the Difference Between Tambour and Luneville Embroidery?

• Fashion Houses Embracing Luneville Embroidery in Their Collections

Ready to Try It Yourself?

To get started, you’ll need a proper hook. You can find the same tambour (Luneville) hooks I use in my own work in the Materials & Tools section of my shop.

If you're curious to see how Luneville embroidery actually works — and want to try it with clear guidance — I offer a course called Introduction to Luneville Embroidery.

It’s designed to help you get started with the technique, even if you’ve never tried it before. You'll learn how to use the tambour hook, practise the basic stitches, and gain the confidence to start your own projects.

👉 Click here to learn more about the course