Layers of Lace and Story: How Erdem Uses Embellishment to Tell Feminine Histories

Erdem Moralıoğlu, the Canadian-Turkish designer behind the London-based fashion house ERDEM, is renowned for his emotionally intelligent womenswear that intertwines historical narratives with contemporary design. His creations often pay homage to influential women, using embellishment not merely as decoration but as a narrative device to convey stories of identity, resilience, and transformation.

Ghosts in the Fabric: Embellishment as Biography

In his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Moralıoğlu drew inspiration from Deborah Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire. He incorporated textiles from Chatsworth House, the Duchess's residence, into his designs, effectively bringing her legacy to life through fabric and thread. The use of upholstery fabrics and intricate lace details suggested continuity and legacy, transforming historical materials into couture-level fashion.

Building upon this narrative approach, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection was inspired by Radclyffe Hall's 1928 novel The Well of Loneliness. Moralıoğlu explored themes of gender identity and love, reflecting Hall's own journey towards living her truth as a lesbian. The collection featured androgynous silhouettes softened with delicate embroidery, symbolizing the fluidity of identity. Notably, the title page of the novel was printed on canvas and sewn as a badge of honor to the cuff of every suit, with a monocle pinned to each lapel.

Fragmented Beauty: When Lace Isn’t Just Lace

Erdem's Autumn/Winter 2022 collection delved into the lives of women from Berlin's 1930s arts scene. The designs featured dark florals, distressed lace, and sharp beading, symbolizing the fractured identities and psychological tension of the era. These embellishments conveyed a sense of imperfection and vulnerability, challenging traditional notions of beauty.

In the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, Moralıoğlu collaborated with artist Kaye Donachie, translating her abstract portraits into textiles. The collection included a portrait of Moralıoğlu's late mother, rendered in ethereal washy blues and imprinted on a simple wrap-around dress. Techniques such as hand-dyed organza and 3D chiffon embroidery were employed to bring these portraits to life, emphasizing the emotional depth and personal connection within the designs.

Not Just Pretty Florals: Subtext in Every Stitch

Erdem’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection was inspired by the remarkable story of Jean Ker, Countess of Roxburghe, a 17th-century lady-in-waiting to Queen Henrietta Maria. The collection drew from the discovery of a sunken ship off the coast of the Netherlands, which contained a perfectly preserved wardrobe believed to belong to the Countess. This historical narrative was intertwined with imagined scenes of 1930s Deauville, creating a dialogue between two eras on the brink of war. The designs featured broderie anglaise, jacquard silks, and floral prints incorporating crowns and Roman numerals, symbolizing the ship's place in the fleet. These elements conveyed a sense of displacement and resilience, reflecting the experiences of women navigating turbulent times.

In Fall/Winter 2019, Erdem shifted from maritime fantasy to the cloistered life of Princess Orietta Doria Pamphilj, the last noble-born custodian of her family’s Roman palace. A librarian and patron of the arts, Orietta chose celibacy and solitude, devoting herself to scholarship and archive preservation. Moralıoğlu translated this life of intentional restraint into silhouettes that were stern but luxurious—high necklines, sweeping skirts, and structured shoulders adorned with black beadwork, metallic brocade, and mourning-like veils. The embellishments became metaphors for concealment, control, and the complexities of inherited identity.

Embellishment as Archive and Voice

Erdem Moralıoğlu's work exemplifies how fashion can serve as a medium for storytelling, with embellishments acting as the language through which narratives are conveyed. His designs honor the complexities of femininity and history, inviting viewers to consider the stories woven into every stitch. For contemporary textile artists and enthusiasts, Erdem's collections offer a rich tapestry of inspiration, demonstrating the power of embellishment in bringing stories to life.